Road to Portland

The road to Portland, overcast and grey but some great scenes anyway. First picture, John Daly dam, we saw three dams all up on this river but this was by far the most impressive due to the water being released.

Below, the dry hills and the storms we were running away from.

As we headed west the hills became greener and the storms a little more distant, still rained though, enough to start reminiscing fondly of dryer times back home.

Idaho Wallace smokehouse

Our one stop in Idaho on the way to the coast was Wallace. We were wet through and cold having ridden over forested peaks in the fog and rain. We dragged ourselves out of our jackets and gloves and splashed over to the Smokehouse, where we had a fantastic lunch and they plied us with hot coffee until our hands thawed out.

Lovely looking town set in the hills with lots of old buildings.

WWFU 3 Vodka

WWFU 3... flavoured vodkas of all sorts, whipped cream, chocolate whip, cake and cotton candy to start

And of course there had to be bacon flavoured vodka, for the perfect bloody Mary, or perhaps to harden up your peanut butter and bacon shake. I thought it would be a good breakfast drink for the really hard core or just the morning after hair of the dog remedy.

Stayed put today in Santa Cruz, loving the sun. Caught a train from the breach up through the redwoods, then spent the afternoon relaxing. Back on the bikes tomorrow and of to ride along the coast through Big Sur onto San Simeon.

more from Yellowstone

Finally found a PC to load photos. Some more images from Yellowstone, firstly elk just lying around as they seemed to do... 

 A view of the traffic we meet on the road, we tended to give right of way to the bison.

 Magnificent clear lake with snowy mountains in the background, very serene could of stayed here all day.

 And of course there was Old Faithful, he did keep us waiting a couple of minutes but then gave us a spectacular show.

Left the seaside motel just south of Fort Bragg and headed on down highway 1 along twisting roads from sun to seas mist, till we cut back towards highway 101 through dark forested roads with patches of dappled sunlight breaking through. Challenging road with tight turns - a lot of fun. From forests through vineyards and wineries to the 101, then down the highway across the golden gate bridge shrouded in mist and onto Santa Cruz for two nights. Long but fabulous day.

Spent two days in Eureka, waiting for the rain to pass.

Today, sun! Rode through the Avenue of the Giants checking out the mighty red woods. Fantastic. Then down the 101, turning off down a challenging twisting, turning, road to the coast - mega fun - and headed south down highway 1, rolling along a road following the cliffs and beaches of the coast. Absolute magic.

The days of rain al
ready forgotten.

Now south of Fort Bragg in a seaside motel with ocean views having a quite cider or two (or three) kicking back admiring the view.

Apologies for the lack of pictures, still having difficulties getting onto a PC that will allow me to load photos.

Two days traveling the Oregon coast.

First day,  forests, smooth winding roads, art deco bridges, hot rod cafe, misty rain, seals, caves, rugged cliffs, rolling giant dunes, cormorants, stellar jays, eagles. Stopped in Bandon due to the rain, old town centre, friendly locals, wonderful dinner at The Edgewater and a bottle of local pinot gris to help relax and warm up. Great evening, highly recommend a stop in Bandon, great gallery, chocolate shop, restaurant and community.

Second day, more misty rain, rocky beach outcrops, rain, rough roads, rain, forests, rain, strong winds, more rain. Wet. Made it across the border to California and although I was sure there would be instant sun... more rain. Leanne not amused with my misdirection on Californian sun...

Of the eight photos I have attempted to load I was successful with two, I seem to be losing technical competence... But here they are, two scenes from Yellowstone...

Snow capped mountains, lake, trees and thermal pools - a pretty good summary of Yellowstone.

Prismatic pool, spectacular and warm...no more words needed.

Spent yesterday riding along next to the Columbia river from rocky dry hills to mountainous forests until we reached the outskirts of Portland. Threatened rain but we stayed dry and were better able to take in the great scenery on the way.

Today was our last day traveling west. Sun. Wonderful smoothed sealed roads winding through Oregon's forest and dairy country. We stopped at a little town called Cloverdale, where we were invited by a couple of other riders from Seattle to join them for lunch. Fantastic to get tales of the road from great people who love to ride and have an abundant sense of fun and energy. A truly great day.

A little further down the road we reached US 101 and the Pacific Coast.  Sun, sea breeze, joy. Staying at the Knights Inn in Newport, where we arrived to be greeted by the manager with freshly cooked clam chowder made from the clams that he had just caught - yum!

WWFU post 2

And the love of bacon continues with candy bacon on a stick and gummy bacon... You could perhaps use the former as  a swizzle stick for the peanut butter and bacon shake...

Another day of cold wet riding on the interstate but have safely bunked down in Kennewick, Washington where it is already warmer although wet. Today can be best described as wet, cold, bloody wet and cold, freezing, oh I can no longer feel my feet and hands, oh now I can - they are the things shaking uncontrollably at the ends of my limbs... and it went on... Currently comfortably hidden away in a hotel room trying to get our riding gear dry.

Tomorrow will be a better day, hoping to make Portland.

Still haven't had the chance to download more photos but I might be able to dig up something I prepared earlier...

Have been having some technical difficulties getting into the blog so apologies for the lack of updates.

We have just been through Butte, Wyoming, a mining town with a lot of great old buildings and a mixture of cultural history. Plus a 90ft memorial statue of Mary on top of a mountain over looking the town called Our Lady of the Rockies.

Yesterday was a long day riding the interstate through cold and rain to overnight in Spokane, Washington. Easily the coldest day of the trip and the hardest ride, now hanging to reach the coast.

Highlight of the day was Wallace, where we stopped for lunch at the Smokehouse, I had the best Alaskan Salmon and the wonderful wait staff kept filling our coffee until our hands thawed out. Highly recommend a stop at this little town.

The road to Mt Rushmore, granite mountains, winding roads and forests...

 And then you take one of the mountains, apply a design, some dynamite, a whole lot of man hours, a grand walkway, and the flags of all states... and you have...

 A really big impressive monument... And while the idea of carving an amazing piece of nature into the busts of four presidents may seem a little odd, it really is an incredible sight to see.

Time to catch up, access has been limited the last couple of days.

We spent a day in Cody, the town that Buffalo Bill founded. Lunch in the Irma hotel, time at the Buffalo Bill Historical Museum, wander around the great historical buildings, stayed at a great log cabin place called Cody Cowboy Village and went to a dinner and show to take in some western culture - the Triple C Cowboys, and they were brilliant, particularly the fiddler who did a magnificent rendition of The Devil Went Down to Georgia (a favourite from when I was young).

Today was an epic day spent riding through Yellowstone National Park - snow topped mountains, crystal clear lakes, thermal pools, pine forests, waterfalls, rivers, deer, bison, reindeer, squirrels, chipmunks, winding roads, just some of the things we saw - truly magnificent or as Leanne likes to say 'awesome'.

Yes I have decided to start occasionally posting the weird, wonderful, funny, or just plain unexplainable things we have come across and this will be the WWFU post 1.

Came across a chain takeaway that does 25 flavours of shakes, excellent we thought that while we were here we could work through the menu... And then we took a closer look... One of these shakes is not like the others...

Today headed west to Buffalo on the I-90, heavy winds that provided a workout for the little beast and I, plus a chill to the air and as we rounded a bend just near exit 82 we saw why - there they were in all their splendid white glory, the snow topped mountains of Big Horn. Wow - split second to appreciate before getting back to tackling the wind and starting vertical.

We turned off the interstate in Buffalo and stopped for a recovery breakfast, when who should wander in but the group of riders from yesterday - a good catch up and some more advice on great places to ride and we were back on the road again headed for a detour from the original plan. Rode up through the mountains to Powder River Pass the highest point on the highway at 9666ft, rocky mountain tops with patches of snow, great views and surrounded by forest and  grassy patches filled with wild flowers, seriously breath taking.

Back down through Buffalo and on the back roads to check out the scenery on the way to Sheridan.

Pictures of Bear Country USA, a 'drive thru' bear park near Rapid City, and no don't panic we didn't ride the bikes - they had a courtesy car that we could borrow.

And then there were the bear cubs... mostly running around stumbling over each other, but this one did stop for a scratch.

Of course there are plenty of other native animals including raccoons, elk, deer, longhorn sheep, bison, attic foxes sand Arctic wolves. Me, I found the lone artic wolf the most interesting, he was just too cool for the rest of the pack.

Great day of riding heading into Wyoming. Spent most of the day off the motorways travelling along winding  roads through scenic parks and small towns. Started the day with misty mountain roads as we left Rapid City and made our way through the Black Hills, hit some patches of fog which made the trip a little challenging in parts but lent the area an air of mystery.

Rode through Sturgis, home of the internationally renowned bike rally that attracts half a million people (where do they fit them all) and onto Deadwood of Wild Bill Hikock fame, now a historical 'wild west' looking town full of mini casinos funding the restoration of the historic sights, seriously seems to be old style pokies in every building.

We meet a group of local riders who were riding the same route and they gave us some great recommendations that we can hopefully fit into the trip, if lucky we might catch them again at a future date.

From Deadwood through more forest and canyons, with the road just a picture perfect dream, onto Devils Tower monument. Here we stopped to check out a field of prairie dogs - way cute and kind of like jolly looking meerkats, full of antics. Then onto the tower itself a massive stone structure seeming to be rising from nowhere, here I took the 2km walk around the base to check out the views from the other side - it was good to stretch the legs for a bit.

Now in Gillette, Wyoming for the night and will continue west in the morning.

On the road to Rapid City...

The prairie, grass plains as far as the eye can see, with occasional tree or patch of water. I don't believe I have ever seen so much green grass.

A glimpse of the Mississippi, and the bridge we crossed over - the bridge being cited as the most beautiful bridge in the US as rated by the National Steel Makers - of cause it wasn't made of wood...

Yellow River at Effigy Park... A gorgeous walk along the river with plenty of birds and turtles.

Last night in Rapid City before continuing west towards Yellowstone National Park. We have traveled through some amazing scenery from prairies to mountains, across rivers and through valleys, and have been able to take in several National parks so far via motorbike, foot and steam train.

Having left behind the retro feel of Route 66 we are now experiencing more of the 'wild west', traveling through old towns built up around mining and seeing the kind of buildings that might have Wild Bill Hickok suddenly rounding the corner - luckily so far we haven't been caught in a gun fight. Along with the change in country side, there is a whole other feel to this part of the journey, one that I am yet to fully define this early. There is something overwhelming by the vast plains, tall forests and mountains made up of huge granite boulders that can make a girl and her bike feel a little 'lost' amongst things.

First photos of our journey west to follow.

My favourite part of our very short time in Chicago... The Bean... Well the real name is something like the cloud, but when the bean fits...

Seriously how can you not love something that is so big and shiney and reflective and gives you such a great view of the city skyline.

And for a free spin out you can go and stand under it for this effect... I am in there somewhere... Its like a game of where's Wally.

The end of the line... Chicago. Amazing city scapes combining art Deco era with new glistening structures.

Plenty of art, wacky, interesting, funky, and  fun, I'll let you decide which applies to these critters who were part of an installation in the park.

And who can go past the classic Chicago sign - the only item actually filmed in Chicago for the movie of the same name - apparently Toronto is cheaper to film in and has a Chicago feel...

And for my most favourite thing in Chicago see my next post.

Final Route 66 scenes...

ODell
Route 66 servo and local collection of old Route 66 gas pumps and signs...

Dwight...historic service station with fabulously friendly and helpful locals full of local knowledge and history, plus they gave me a free tootsie pop in the tradition of the original owner (yes I can be bought by candy). Great stuff inside including the towns original fire truck, a must see.

Third long day in a row heading west. Started the day over cast threatening more rain, windy and cold. Rode through prairies, long green grass rippling hypnotic patterns with the wind, which would have been magic if I wasn't trying to fight the wind to keep the little beast straight and true. Slowly changed to rolling hills and blue skies with the wind easing up to just a light gale.

Have covered just under 2000kms in 3 days, now settled into Rapid City, South Dakota, for a few days to explore the local national parks.

 onto the photo catch up...

Atlanta, Illinois - absolute must stop on Route 66.  Tiny town with lots of heart, great diner, little museum with lovely helpful locals, great little local artists collective, and a giant Paul Bunyon all within stumbling distance. For a true taste of the Route 66 revival experience.

Palms Grill Cafe with great pie and excellent atmosphere.

Paul Bunyon taking a lunch break from working with the axe...

The local  street

The last two days have been long days travelling west.

Yesterday, most of the day off the freeways, quiet roads, sweeping bends through forests, around lakes, across and then along  the Mississippi, before heading into the plains and farming country, old tumbling down barns, new red barns, green fields to the horizon, large pretty farm houses, glorious, cool but sunny day.

Today, rain, cold, long miles on the freeway and more rain, and did I mention rain, then more rain and it was wet too. highlight - hot shower at the end.

And now for some more catch up photos.

Final part of Route 66 and a stop in Springfield, Illinois, the state capital and home of Abraham Lincoln.

The old capital building...

The new capital building... Slight increase in size...I couldn't fit it into one photo

Discussing with Abe the finer points of speech writing...

Lunch at Cafe Moxo, I recommend the Turkey and cranberry Waldorf salad.

All up a great little city with lots of history and everything you could possibly want to know on Lincoln , of course you can visit him at Oak cemetery, but be sure to call into the nearby souvenir shop and have a chart with the lovely ladies who work there, they give great advice on local customs and specialties.

'Non-Elvis' Memphis, starting with Sun Studios - so cool where some of the greats were first discovered and recorded... Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins, Johnny Cash, Howlin' Wolf Burnett, the Big O, oh yeah and Elvis.... plus a lot of the tracks of U2's Rattle and Hum album were recorded here... yes one of my favourites, so maybe a little star struck on this visit.

Beale Street where we walked, lunched, listened to blues and drank on-tap frozen cocktails at Wet Willies - oh so fabulous.

These guys were brilliant, excellent blues and the guy on the right could make his guitar sound like anything from a piano to an old dying VW - which he sang a song about, that anyone who had a beaten up first car, much older than themselves, could relate to.

And so we have finished the Route 66 pilgrimage making it into Chicago and having ridden over 4000 kms. There is definitely a feeling of achievement but mixed with a little melancholy at an adventure left behind. A big pat for the little beast that has carried me all this way, so happy with her performance.

The great people we have met, the amazing indescribable scenes, the slow destruction of an amazing history versus the hopes and dreams of those who are working to preserve and restore. Wow it was epic. Would I recommend it - in a heartbeat. Would I do it again - you bet.

Next.

Well we have only completed the first section of our trip. So it time to shrug off any remnants of melancholy and go West across the top to see exactly what someone can do with a mountain and a chisel.

And yes I will get on to catching up with photos...

Visiting Elvis... the entrance to Graceland

The room he had adjoining his racquetball court where he played his last music.

His racquetball court converted to house only part of his award collection.

And finally at rest in his meditation garden between his grandmother and mother...

Sad, beautiful, in awe, peaceful, energetic, just a lot of conflicting emotions and feelings... RIP Elvis.

Views on our detour to Memphis. Below is the misty forest that is Hot Springs National Park.

One of the hot springs in waterfall form, the water as it comes out of the ground is too hot to touch at the bottom of the waterfall the water had cooled just enough to be able to touch.

And after a morning of walking through the forest we wandered down to Bath House Row to soak and be massaged at Buckstaff baths the longest running bath house at Hot Springs, it was wonderful.